90% Zinfandel, 10% Riesling. The Wirz Vineyard, named for its longtime farmer-owner, Pat Wirz, sits in the wind-whipped Cienega Valley right on top of the San Andreas Fault, at the bottom of the eastern flank of the Gabilan mountains. Around the year 1900, it was planted to a typical field blend from vineyards in the Diablo range, consisting of Mataro, Carignan, Zinfandel, and the oddball—Cabernet Pfeffer. Dry farmed, own rooted, head-trained, and organically farmed vines are the story in this special hidden valley. Fermented whole-cluster in an open-top redwood fermenter, with 10% Wirz Vineyard Riesling added into the mix for aromatics and lift. Élevage in old barriques for ten months on the lees. Unfined, unfiltered. This ’19 Zinfandel hails from a long and cool growing year, permitting physiological ripeness without any of the bruiser, saccharine qualities you might expect from the stereotypical thick ‘n’ ripe versions of this Mediterranean variety. Aromatic and medium weight, with fine structure and no sense of dullness. A charming argument for a reconsideration of this variety in California;