Kiko Calvo Bigardo Toro 16, full bodied with dark, dark fruits


Can you judge a wine by its label? Well, since Kiko Calvo likes to have his hand in everything—the soil, the grape selection, the fermentation—this label's spot on. Traveling around the world, Calvo picked up some ideas about winemaking for his family's vineyard. First, farm organically—or, as he says, logically. He also harvests manually, making several passes through the vineyard keeping only the best fruit, and ferments each parcel separately in neutral barrels without pumping over (thanks gravity!). It's a big, bold wine, as only Toros can be, and it's alive with vibrant freshness. There's plenty of plump, juicy dark fruit (blackberries and black cherries), an earthy, tar-like streak, and baking spices that give an impression of sweetness, in spite of its dry finish. In short: a delicious, hand-made wine.