Georges Descombes Morgon Vieilles Vignes 2018 -beaujolais that's alive & poised,
From Ned at Devenish:
Georges uses the same wine making for all his Vielle Vignes (old vine) bottlings: after hand harvesting the grapes are put in a big refrigerator to chill them, then they go into 60hl cement tanks for carbonic fermentation of up to a month. When they're done he gently presses the juice off using an old wooden basket press (with precise mechanical control of the pressure). The wine ages for 12 months in 228L oak barrels before bottling and aging in bottle.
Aroma: a gorgeous and complex aroma that smells like raspberries and red cherries; a little dusty, a little wood smoke, and a bit of grilled green onions. The cherry/raspberry fruit is the expressive core of the aroma, but there are so many exciting flavors around it.
Taste: juicy rich, whoa there is so much fruit but also a spicy quality. Fresh and lush black cherries that are so gorgeously supple and open, backed up by lovely uplifting acidity that keeps a low profile but makes the wine so compelling. The midpalate is ripe and has a hint of chocolate along with some raspberry. Then there's some sneaky tannin that helps tie it together but doesn't get in the way of this wines extraordinary balance and refinement. So alive tasting but also so poised; it's quite impressive that Georges can do this working so hands off.