Bulli Ortrugo Colli Piacentini Frizzante, a humble gem of a fizzy libation

This frizzante is 100% Ortrugo. A grape once used mostly as a blending companion to the more fancied Malvasia, it is known for articulated acidity, thus making it a perfect foundation for sparkling and semi-sparkling wines. In recent years, it has come out of the shadows and is frequently used for single-varietal wines, mostly coming from the region of Colli Piacentini in Emilia-Romagna, known for its limestone soil. The Bulli Ortrugo begins with vines of 10-50 years of age. Guyot trained. The grapes are picked in September and October. Native yeasts are used to ferment the wine dry, and after waiting over the winter months, grape must from the autumn harvest is added to induce secondary fermentation. This, of course, gives the wine a sparkle. Like all wines from Bulli, it sees no added SO2. When first poured, before getting air, the nose is crushed and chalky limestone. Released soon after are aromas of savory/sweet Jordan almonds, nectarines and blossoms, along with a trace of that original, almost smokey, minerality. The palate is salty, with flavors of firm pear, sage, and a very long, dry finish of fresh lemon zest. The color is that of homemade lemon-water. Contrary to what is said about Ortrugo, I didn't find this wine incredibly high in acid. Well balanced flavors and structure here.  -David Hatzopoulos, Chambers Wine